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an inland voyage-第10部分

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st appearance; we should behold him vanish with  comparative equanimity。

The good folk of the inn at Pont; when we called there for the  bags; were overcome with marvelling。  At sight of these two dainty  little boats; with a fluttering Union Jack on each; and all the  varnish shining from the sponge; they began to perceive that they  had entertained angels unawares。  The landlady stood upon the  bridge; probably lamenting she had charged so little; the son ran  to and fro; and called out the neighbours to enjoy the sight; and  we paddled away from quite a crowd of wrapt observers。  These  gentlemen pedlars; indeed!  Now you see their quality too late。

The whole day was showery; with occasional drenching plumps。  We  were soaked to the skin; then partially dried in the sun; then  soaked once more。  But there were some calm intervals; and one  notably; when we were skirting the forest of Mormal; a sinister  name to the ear; but a place most gratifying to sight and smell。   It looked solemn along the river…side; drooping its boughs into the  water; and piling them up aloft into a wall of leaves。  What is a  forest but a city of nature's own; full of hardy and innocuous  living things; where there is nothing dead and nothing made with  the hands; but the citizens themselves are the houses and public  monuments?  There is nothing so much alive; and yet so quiet; as a  woodland; and a pair of people; swinging past in canoes; feel very  small and bustling by comparison。

And surely of all smells in the world; the smell of many trees is  the sweetest and most fortifying。  The sea has a rude; pistolling  sort of odour; that takes you in the nostrils like snuff; and  carries with it a fine sentiment of open water and tall ships; but  the smell of a forest; which comes nearest to this in tonic  quality; surpasses it by many degrees in the quality of softness。   Again; the smell of the sea has little variety; but the smell of a  forest is infinitely changeful; it varies with the hour of the day;  not in strength merely; but in character; and the different sorts  of trees; as you go from one zone of the wood to another; seem to  live among different kinds of atmosphere。  Usually the resin of the  fir predominates。  But some woods are more coquettish in their  habits; and the breath of the forest of Mormal; as it came aboard  upon us that showery afternoon; was perfumed with nothing less  delicate than sweetbrier。

I wish our way had always lain among woods。  Trees are the most  civil society。  An old oak that has been growing where he stands  since before the Reformation; taller than many spires; more stately  than the greater part of mountains; and yet a living thing; liable  to sicknesses and death; like you and me:  is not that in itself a  speaking lesson in history?  But acres on acres full of such  patriarchs contiguously rooted; their green tops billowing in the  wind; their stalwart younglings pushing up about their knees:  a  whole forest; healthy and beautiful; giving colour to the light;  giving perfume to the air:  what is this but the most imposing  piece in nature's repertory?  Heine wished to lie like Merlin under  the oaks of Broceliande。  I should not be satisfied with one tree;  but if the wood grew together like a banyan grove; I would be  buried under the tap…root of the whole; my parts should circulate  from oak to oak; and my consciousness should be diffused abroad in  all the forest; and give a common heart to that assembly of green  spires; so that it also might rejoice in its own loveliness and  dignity。  I think I feel a thousand squirrels leaping from bough to  bough in my vast mausoleum; and the birds and the winds merrily  coursing over its uneven; leafy surface。

Alas! the forest of Mormal is only a little bit of a wood; and it  was but for a little way that we skirted by its boundaries。  And  the rest of the time the rain kept coming in squirts and the wind  in squalls; until one's heart grew weary of such fitful; scolding  weather。  It was odd how the showers began when we had to carry the  boats over a lock; and must expose our legs。  They always did。   This is a sort of thing that readily begets a personal feeling  against nature。  There seems no reason why the shower should not  come five minutes before or five minutes after; unless you suppose  an intention to affront you。  The CIGARETTE had a mackintosh which  put him more or less above these contrarieties。  But I had to bear  the brunt uncovered。  I began to remember that nature was a woman。   My companion; in a rosier temper; listened with great satisfaction  to my Jeremiads; and ironically concurred。  He instanced; as a  cognate matter; the action of the tides; 'which;' said he; 'was  altogether designed for the confusion of canoeists; except in so  far as it was calculated to minister to a barren vanity on the part  of the moon。'

At the last lock; some little way out of Landrecies; I refused to  go any farther; and sat in a drift of rain by the side of the bank;  to have a reviving pipe。  A vivacious old man; whom I take to have  been the devil; drew near and questioned me about our journey。  In  the fulness of my heart; I laid bare our plans before him。  He said  it was the silliest enterprise that ever he heard of。  Why; did I  not know; he asked me; that it was nothing but locks; locks; locks;  the whole way? not to mention that; at this season of the year; we  should find the Oise quite dry?  'Get into a train; my little young  man;' said he; I and go you away home to your parents。'  I was so  astounded at the man's malice; that I could only stare at him in  silence。  A tree would never have spoken to me like this。  At last  I got out with some words。  We had come from Antwerp already; I  told him; which was a good long way; and we should do the rest in  spite of him。  Yes; I said; if there were no other reason; I would  do it now; just because he had dared to say we could not。  The  pleasant old gentleman looked at me sneeringly; made an allusion to  my canoe; and marched of; waggling his head。

I was still inwardly fuming; when up came a pair of young fellows;  who imagined I was the CIGARETTE'S servant; on a comparison; I  suppose; of my bare jersey with the other's mackintosh; and asked  me many questions about my place and my master's character。  I said  he was a good enough fellow; but had this absurd voyage on the  head。  'O no; no;' said one; 'you must not say that; it is not  absurd; it is very courageous of him。'  I believe these were a  couple of angels sent to give me heart again。  It was truly  fortifying to reproduce all the old man's insinuations; as if they  were original to me in my character of a malcontent footman; and  have them brushed away like so many flies by these admirable young  men。

When I recounted this affair to the CIGARETTE; 'They must have a  curious idea of how English servants behave;' says he dryly; 'for  you treated me like a brute beast at the lock。'

I was a good deal mortified; but my temper had suffered; it is a  fact。



AT LANDRECIES



AT Landrecies the rain still fell and the wind still blew; but we  found a double…bedded room with plenty of furniture; real water… jugs with 
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