an inland voyage-第12部分

快捷操作: 按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页 按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页 按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部! 如果本书没有阅读完，想下次继续接着阅读，可使用上方 "收藏到我的浏览器" 功能 和 "加入书签" 功能！


　mark　of　popular　favour　on　the　whole　cruise。　　After　　all；　being　in　a　Judge's　house；　was　there　not　something　semi…　official　in　the　tribute？　　And　so；　remembering　what　a　great　country　　France　is；　we　did　full　justice　to　our　entertainment。　　Landrecies　　had　been　a　long　while　asleep　before　we　returned　to　the　hotel；　and　　the　sentries　on　the　ramparts　were　already　looking　for　daybreak。



SAMBRE　AND　OISE　CANAL



CANAL　BOATS


NEXT　day　we　made　a　late　start　in　the　rain。　　The　Judge　politely　　escorted　us　to　the　end　of　the　lock　under　an　umbrella。　　We　had　now　　brought　ourselves　to　a　pitch　of　humility　in　the　matter　of　weather；　　not　often　attained　except　in　the　Scottish　Highlands。　　A　rag　of　blue　　sky　or　a　glimpse　of　sunshine　set　our　hearts　singing；　and　when　the　　rain　was　not　heavy；　we　counted　the　day　almost　fair。

Long　lines　of　barges　lay　one　after　another　along　the　canal；　many　of　　them　looking　mighty　spruce　and　shipshape　in　their　jerkin　of　　Archangel　tar　picked　out　with　white　and　green。　　Some　carried　gay　　iron　railings；　and　quite　a　parterre　of　flower…pots。　　Children　　played　on　the　decks；　as　heedless　of　the　rain　as　if　they　had　been　　brought　up　on　Loch　Carron　side；　men　fished　over　the　gunwale；　some　　of　them　under　umbrellas；　women　did　their　washing；　and　every　barge　　boasted　its　mongrel　cur　by　way　of　watch…dog。　　Each　one　barked　　furiously　at　the　canoes；　running　alongside　until　he　had　got　to　the　　end　of　his　own　ship；　and　so　passing　on　the　word　to　the　dog　aboard　　the　next。　　We　must　have　seen　something　like　a　hundred　of　these　　embarkations　in　the　course　of　that　day's　paddle；　ranged　one　after　　another　like　the　houses　in　a　street；　and　from　not　one　of　them　were　　we　disappointed　of　this　accompaniment。　　It　was　like　visiting　a　　menagerie；　the　CIGARETTE　remarked。

These　little　cities　by　the　canal　side　had　a　very　odd　effect　upon　　the　mind。　　They　seemed；　with　their　flower…pots　and　smoking　　chimneys；　their　washings　and　dinners；　a　rooted　piece　of　nature　in　　the　scene；　and　yet　if　only　the　canal　below　were　to　open；　one　junk　　after　another　would　hoist　sail　or　harness　horses　and　swim　away　into　　all　parts　of　France；　and　the　impromptu　hamlet　would　separate；　house　　by　house；　to　the　four　winds。　　The　children　who　played　together　to…　day　by　the　Sambre　and　Oise　Canal；　each　at　his　own　father's　　threshold；　when　and　where　might　they　next　meet？

For　some　time　past　the　subject　of　barges　had　occupied　a　great　deal　　of　our　talk；　and　we　had　projected　an　old　age　on　the　canals　of　　Europe。　　It　was　to　be　the　most　leisurely　of　progresses；　now　on　a　　swift　river　at　the　tail　of　a　steam…boat；　now　waiting　horses　for　　days　together　on　some　inconsiderable　junction。　　We　should　be　seen　　pottering　on　deck　in　all　the　dignity　of　years；　our　white　beards　　falling　into　our　laps。　　We　were　ever　to　be　busied　among　paint…pots；　　so　that　there　should　be　no　white　fresher；　and　no　green　more　emerald　　than　ours；　in　all　the　navy　of　the　canals。　　There　should　be　books　in　　the　cabin；　and　tobacco…jars；　and　some　old　Burgundy　as　red　as　a　　November　sunset　and　as　odorous　as　a　violet　in　April。　　There　should　　be　a　flageolet；　whence　the　CIGARETTE；　with　cunning　touch；　should　　draw　melting　music　under　the　stars；　or　perhaps；　laying　that　aside；　　upraise　his　voice　…　somewhat　thinner　than　of　yore；　and　with　here　　and　there　a　quaver；　or　call　it　a　natural　grace…note　…　in　rich　and　　solemn　psalmody。

All　this；　simmering　in　my　mind；　set　me　wishing　to　go　aboard　one　of　　these　ideal　houses　of　lounging。　　I　had　plenty　to　choose　from；　as　I　　coasted　one　after　another；　and　the　dogs　bayed　at　me　for　a　vagrant。　　　At　last　I　saw　a　nice　old　man　and　his　wife　looking　at　me　with　some　　interest；　so　I　gave　them　good…day　and　pulled　up　alongside。　　I　began　　with　a　remark　upon　their　dog；　which　had　somewhat　the　look　of　a　　pointer；　thence　I　slid　into　a　compliment　on　Madame's　flowers；　and　　thence　into　a　word　in　praise　of　their　way　of　life。

If　you　ventured　on　such　an　experiment　in　England　you　would　get　a　　slap　in　the　face　at　once。　　The　life　would　be　shown　to　be　a　vile　　one；　not　without　a　side　shot　at　your　better　fortune。　　Now；　what　I　　like　so　much　in　France　is　the　clear　unflinching　recognition　by　　everybody　of　his　own　luck。　　They　all　know　on　which　side　their　bread　　is　buttered；　and　take　a　pleasure　in　showing　it　to　others；　which　is　　surely　the　better　part　of　religion。　　And　they　scorn　to　make　a　poor　　mouth　over　their　poverty；　which　I　take　to　be　the　better　part　of　　manliness。　　I　have　heard　a　woman　in　quite　a　better　position　at　　home；　with　a　good　bit　of　money　in　hand；　refer　to　her　own　child　with　　a　horrid　whine　as　'a　poor　man's　child。'　　I　would　not　say　such　a　　thing　to　the　Duke　of　Westminster。　　And　the　French　are　full　of　this　　spirit　of　independence。　　Perhaps　it　is　the　result　of　republican　　institutions；　as　they　call　them。　　Much　more　likely　it　is　because　　there　are　so　few　people　really　poor；　that　the　whiners　are　not　　enough　to　keep　each　other　in　countenance。

The　people　on　the　barge　were　delighted　to　hear　that　I　admired　their　　state。　　They　understood　perfectly　well；　they　told　me；　how　Monsieur　　envied　them。　　Without　doubt　Monsieur　was　rich；　and　in　that　case　he　　might　make　a　canal　boat　as　pretty　as　a　villa　…　JOLI　COMME　UN　　CHATEAU。　　And　with　that　they　invited　me　on　board　their　own　water　　villa。　　They　apologised　for　their　cabin；　they　had　not　been　rich　　enough　to　make　it　as　it　ought　to　be。

'The　fire　should　have　been　here；　at　this　side。'　explained　the　　husband。　　'Then　one　might　have　a　writing…table　in　the　middle　…　　books　…　and'　（comprehensively）　'all。　　It　would　be　quite　coquettish　　…　CA　SERAIT　TOUT…A…FAIT　COQUET。'　　And　he　looked　about　him　as　though　　the　improvements　were　already　made。　　It　was　plainly　not　the　first　　time　that　he　had　thus　beautified　his　cabin　in　imagination；　and　when　　next　he　makes　a　bit；　I　should　expect　to　see　the　writing…table　in　　the　middle。

Madame　had　three　birds　in　a　cage。　　They　were　no　great　thing；　she　　explained。　　Fine　birds　were　so　dear。　　They　had　sought　to　get　a　　HOLLANDAIS　last　winter　in　Rouen　（Rouen？　thought　I；　and　is　this　　whole　mansion；　with　its　dogs　and　birds　and　smoking　chimneys；　so　far　　a　traveller　as　that？　and　as　homely　an　object　among　the　cliffs　and　　orchards　of　the　Seine　as　on　the　green　plains　of　Sambre？）　…　they　had　　sought　to　get　a　HOLLANDAIS　last　winter　in　Rouen；　but　these　cost　　fifteen　francs　apiece　…　picture　it　…　fifteen　francs！

'POUR　UN　TOUT　PETIT　OISEAU　…　For　quite　a　little　bird；'　added　the　　husband。

As　I　continued　to　admire；　the　apologetics　died　away；　and　the　good　　people　began　to　brag　of　their　barge；　and　their　happy　condition　in　　life；　as　if　they　had　been　Emperor　and　Empress　of　the　Indies。　　It　　was；　in　the　Scots　phrase；　a　good　hearing；　and　put　me　in　good　humour　　with　the　world。　　If　people　knew　what　an　inspiriting　thing　it　is　to　　hear　a　man　boasting；　so　long　as　he　boasts　of　what　he　really　has；　I　　believe　they　would　do　it　more　freely　and　with　a　better　grace。

They　began　to　ask　about　our　voyage。　　You　should　have　seen　how　they　　sympathised。　　They　seemed　half　ready　to　give　up　their　barge　and　　follow　us。　　But　these　CANALETTI　are　only　gypsies　semi…domesticated。　　　The　semi…domestication　came　out　in　rather　a　pretty　form。　　Suddenly　　Madam's　brow　darkened。　　'CEPENDANT；'　she　began；　and　then　stopped；　　and