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the uncommercial traveller-第2部分

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waterfall; and down the gullies where the land drains off into the

ocean; the scattered quarrymen and fishermen inhabiting that part

of Wales had come running to the dismal sight … their clergyman

among them。  And as they stood in the leaden morning; stricken with

pity; leaning hard against the wind; their breath and vision often

failing as the sleet and spray rushed at them from the ever forming

and dissolving mountains of sea; and as the wool which was a part

of the vessel's cargo blew in with the salt foam and remained upon

the land when the foam melted; they saw the ship's life…boat put

off from one of the heaps of wreck; and first; there were three men

in her; and in a moment she capsized; and there were but two; and

again; she was struck by a vast mass of water; and there was but

one; and again; she was thrown bottom upward; and that one; with

his arm struck through the broken planks and waving as if for the

help that could never reach him; went down into the deep。



It was the clergyman himself from whom I heard this; while I stood

on the shore; looking in his kind wholesome face as it turned to

the spot where the boat had been。  The divers were down then; and

busy。  They were 'lifting' to…day the gold found yesterday … some

five…and…twenty thousand pounds。  Of three hundred and fifty

thousand pounds' worth of gold; three hundred thousand pounds'

worth; in round numbers; was at that time recovered。  The great

bulk of the remainder was surely and steadily coming up。  Some loss

of sovereigns there would be; of course; indeed; at first

sovereigns had drifted in with the sand; and been scattered far and

wide over the beach; like sea…shells; but most other golden

treasure would be found。  As it was brought up; it went aboard the

Tug…steamer; where good account was taken of it。  So tremendous had

the force of the sea been when it broke the ship; that it had

beaten one great ingot of gold; deep into a strong and heavy piece

of her solid iron…work:  in which; also; several loose sovereigns

that the ingot had swept in before it; had been found; as firmly

embedded as though the iron had been liquid when they were forced

there。  It had been remarked of such bodies come ashore; too; as

had been seen by scientific men; that they had been stunned to

death; and not suffocated。  Observation; both of the internal

change that had been wrought in them; and of their external

expression; showed death to have been thus merciful and easy。  The

report was brought; while I was holding such discourse on the

beach; that no more bodies had come ashore since last night。  It

began to be very doubtful whether many more would be thrown up;

until the north…east winds of the early spring set in。  Moreover; a

great number of the passengers; and particularly the second…class

women…passengers; were known to have been in the middle of the ship

when she parted; and thus the collapsing wreck would have fallen

upon them after yawning open; and would keep them down。  A diver

made known; even then; that he had come upon the body of a man; and

had sought to release it from a great superincumbent weight; but

that; finding he could not do so without mutilating the remains; he

had left it where it was。



It was the kind and wholesome face I have made mention of as being

then beside me; that I had purposed to myself to see; when I left

home for Wales。  I had heard of that clergyman; as having buried

many scores of the shipwrecked people; of his having opened his

house and heart to their agonised friends; of his having used a

most sweet and patient diligence for weeks and weeks; in the

performance of the forlornest offices that Man can render to his

kind; of his having most tenderly and thoroughly devoted himself to

the dead; and to those who were sorrowing for the dead。  I had said

to myself; 'In the Christmas season of the year; I should like to

see that man!'  And he had swung the gate of his little garden in

coming out to meet me; not half an hour ago。



So cheerful of spirit and guiltless of affectation; as true

practical Christianity ever is!  I read more of the New Testament

in the fresh frank face going up the village beside me; in five

minutes; than I have read in anathematising discourses (albeit put

to press with enormous flourishing of trumpets); in all my life。  I

heard more of the Sacred Book in the cordial voice that had nothing

to say about its owner; than in all the would…be celestial pairs of

bellows that have ever blown conceit at me。



We climbed towards the little church; at a cheery pace; among the

loose stones; the deep mud; the wet coarse grass; the outlying

water; and other obstructions from which frost and snow had lately

thawed。  It was a mistake (my friend was glad to tell me; on the

way) to suppose that the peasantry had shown any superstitious

avoidance of the drowned; on the whole; they had done very well;

and had assisted readily。  Ten shillings had been paid for the

bringing of each body up to the church; but the way was steep; and

a horse and cart (in which it was wrapped in a sheet) were

necessary; and three or four men; and; all things considered; it

was not a great price。  The people were none the richer for the

wreck; for it was the season of the herring…shoal … and who could

cast nets for fish; and find dead men and women in the draught?



He had the church keys in his hand; and opened the churchyard gate;

and opened the church door; and we went in。



It is a little church of great antiquity; there is reason to

believe that some church has occupied the spot; these thousand

years or more。  The pulpit was gone; and other things usually

belonging to the church were gone; owing to its living congregation

having deserted it for the neighbouring school…room; and yielded it

up to the dead。  The very Commandments had been shouldered out of

their places; in the bringing in of the dead; the black wooden

tables on which they were painted; were askew; and on the stone

pavement below them; and on the stone pavement all over the church;

were the marks and stains where the drowned had been laid down。

The eye; with little or no aid from the imagination; could yet see

how the bodies had been turned; and where the head had been and

where the feet。  Some faded traces of the wreck of the Australian

ship may be discernible on the stone pavement of this little

church; hundreds of years hence; when the digging for gold in

Australia shall have long and long ceased out of the land。



Forty…four shipwrecked men and women lay here at one time; awaiting

burial。  Here; with weeping and wailing in every room of his house;

my companion worked alone for hours; solemnly surrounded by eyes

that could not see him; and by lips that could not speak to him;

patiently examining the tattered clothing; cutting off buttons;

hair; marks from linen; anything that might lead to subsequent

identification; studying faces; looking for a scar; a bent 
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